Defending Beef, The Ecological and Nutritional Case for Meat, 2nd Edition, reviewed

We look at this thought provoking and arguably controversial book by Nicolette Hahn Niman. Defending Beef is published by Chelsea Green Publishers and you can see more about it here.

Defending Beef, The Ecological and Nutritional Case for Meat, 2nd Edition, reviewed

Nicolette Hahn Niman has been on both sides of the fence, a long time vegetarian, and also now married to a cattle rancher and once more eating meat again. She is well aware of the arguments and concerns for both eating, and not eating meat. We have several new vegans in the house, inspired by many of the arguments that Niman looks to analyse, discuss, and at times deconstruct.

In many ways this is no bad thing. As The Smiths once said ‘Meat is Murder‘, but this might be a drastic over simplification of some of the arguments brought into play. As befitting her legalistic background Niman aims to examine each element of the conversation with a dispassionate eye. One of her more convincing points is that the argument about water used per unit of food, when meat is compared to vegetables has perhaps been framed using selective properties, namely beef versus potatoes. Which use very little water, whereas rice and sugar are large water consumers.

Niman is also clear in articulating that farmers who pump their animals full of antibiotics and boosted feeding regimes are not keeping to their side of the deal in terms of appropriate animal husbandry. She brings into play the catchy phrase ‘it is the how, not the cow’, which is at least worth considering. One of her other arguments, that, if farmers did not use the land for rearing cows, then they would not switch over to plant based products, felt less plausible.

In a time when many issues are deeply polarised a book like this may not be welcome by those fully committed to the vegan path. However for those looking to have a more rounded understanding of the wide, and complex issues involved in veganism, meat production and what could be good and less good food for us, this book is thought provoking and well worth reading. We enjoyed it, and it is a useful contribution to the debate and understanding about what eating well and looking after our planet could look like.

PLANTS v. MEAT is silly. We need a REGENERATIVE food system — which requires BOTH. Great conversation with DR. MARK HYMAN. https://t.co/FHmJJAuROP

— Defending Beef (@DefendingBeef) July 28, 2021

Defending Beef:

As the meat industry?from small-scale ranchers and butchers to sprawling slaughterhouse operators?responds to COVID-19, the climate threat, and the rise of plant-based meats, Defending Beef delivers a passionate argument for responsible meat production and consumption.

For decades it has been nearly universal dogma among environmentalists that many forms of livestock, but especially cattle, are Public Enemy Number One. They erode soils, pollute air and water, damage riparian areas, and decimate wildlife populations. But is the matter really so clear-cut? Hardly. In Defending Beef, Second Edition, environmental lawyer turned rancher Nicolette Hahn Niman argues that cattle are not inherently bad for the earth. The impact of grazing can be either negative or positive, depending on how livestock are managed. In fact, with proper oversight, livestock can play an essential role in maintaining grassland ecosystems by performing the same functions as the natural herbivores that once roamed and grazed there.

With more public discussions and media being paid to connections between health and diet, food and climate, and climate and farming?especially cattle farming, Defending Beef has never been more timely. And in this newly revised and updated edition, the author also addresses the explosion in popularity of ‘fake meat’ (both highly processed ‘plant-based foods’ and meat grown from cells in a lab, rather than on the hoof).

Defending Beef is simultaneously a book about big issues and the personal journey of the author, who continues to fight for animal welfare and good science. Hahn Niman shows how dispersed, grass-based, smaller-scale farms can and should become the basis of American food production.

About the Author:

Nicolette Hahn Niman served as senior attorney for Waterkeeper Alliance, running their campaign to reform the concentrated production of livestock and poultry. In recent years, she has gained a national reputation as an advocate for sustainable food production and improved farm-animal welfare. She is the author of Righteous Porkchop and DefendingBeef, and has written for numerous publications, including the New York Times, Los Angeles Times, HuffPost, and The Atlantic online. She lives on a ranch in Northern California with her husband, Bill Niman, and their two sons.

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